MY PERFECT TRIP TO ST. BARTHS
Uneventful trip from SJU to SBH on Tradewind, arriving 4:00 pm. Pick up the car at the airport and go straight to the villa, which has been pre-stocked with cold beverages and light snacks. Quick check of emails, check out the villa, and unpack. Take a deep breathe, take in the view, and think about how wonderful it is to be back on St Barths.
I love tradition and for many years, the first night’s dinner was at Paradiso, where L’Isola is now. Bernard was the chef, Alain was the front man and the warm welcome from them both was a true homecoming. The meal was always the same on the first night, gazepacho to start followed by beef carpaccio with frites. Creme Brulee was the dessert of choice, unless we decided to pass on dessert in anticipation of profiteroles later in trip. Fast forward to 2018 or thereabouts, Les Bananiers is now the first night tradition. After traveling all day and preferring an early night, the versatile menu, friendly service, and lack of fanfare and theater makes for a relaxing meal at a reasonable price. Trust me when I suggest ordering duck nems for the table and then the thai shrimp salad as an entree. The right amount of cilantro is the perfect touch for this tasty and light meal.
The first morning waking up on St Barths requires a walk on St Jean beach from end to end. It’s a perfect time to collect your thoughts, plan the day, soak up some sun, and go for a swim. Head back to the villa via your favorite boulangerie, (my favorite is Petite Colombe) and it’s time to start the day.
Another first day “must” is the stop at Passion Beaute in St Jean, between the bank and Eden to Go. I buy my supply of Esthederm tanning products and I am ready to take on the Caribbean sun. If you’ve not experienced these products, you don’t know what you’ve been missing. This blonde, blue eyed sun worshipper has tried numerous tanning products and nothing compares. Say good bye sun burn and hello healthy tan! Plus the fragrance is soft and encourages you to lather up all day long. And don’t forget the all important lip balm!
A busy morning of beach walking, swimming, and armed with suntan products, it’s time to think about lunch and Nao Beach is a great idea for the first lunch of the trip. Enjoy a delicious caipirinha while waiting to order and people watch. The menu offers plenty of shareable options which is conducive for a long lunch with many different tastes. If you’re not in the mood to share, then ordering something “solo” is fine too. I highly recommend the wahoo ceviche with fennel, or the white beet carpaccio; you can easily share these but you won’t want to! The shrimp tempura is the best I’ve had in recent memory, and the cold cucumber soup was delicious and refreshing!
L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon was a new discovery for me last March. The atmosphere, attentive staff, and the rooftop terrace - all very pleasing. The smoked salmon was delicious! I wanted to return on that trip but ran out of time. It will certainly be on my list when I return in early November. One interesting surprise was how easy it was to find parking at lunch time. Many people who work in town leave at lunch to go home so don’t hesitate to try it, if you haven’t already!
Lunch on St Barths is epic for sure but Sundays…Sunday lunches are in a league of their own. Mention “Sunday Lunch” to a veteran traveler to the island and it’s a trigger for an instant smile. There have been many favorites over the years but right now The Beach Club at Le Toiny is my “go to” for a long Sunday lunch. The setting is so beautiful with its multitude of palm trees, glistening sea of diamonds as the sun dances on the waves, overall spaciousness, music that’s suitable for a elegant yet “toes in the sand” vibe, and great food. If the waves offer good surfing, watching (and judging) those who know the local waters, is added entertainment as you are lulled into thoughts of nothingness… The other option for Sunday lunch, which is equally as memorable, is lunch at the villa.
If you have chosen the right villa, the allure of the epic Sunday lunch is an obvious choice. It’s also a versatile option as you might have someone who loves to cook a meal for friends and family, there are options for buying prepared foods requiring very little effort, or you can have a chef come and cook for you. I have often used Romain Villaret from Fabulous Feasts. He and his staff provide outstanding service and the food has been some of my favorite meals on recent trips.
For shopping, I like to head into Gustavia about an hour before the shops open and have breakfast. This is so much fun and the complete opposite of starting with a walk on the beach. Talk about great people watching! There are the shopkeepers heading to their boutiques, the crews from the yachts running their errands, delivery trucks making their local rounds, and of course, the tourists heading the the beach or bakery.
The idea of having breakfast first allows easy parking and then once breakfast is finished, you can take your time and shop until you heart is content. Some of my other favorite shopping stops are Clic in Gustavia. There’s always something interesting here whether it’s their books, artwork, pocketbooks, or clothing. Hermes, of course, is a must and since it’s near Clic, there’s no reason not to see what’s new, and the same is true for Longchamp. I also enjoy stopping at the different shops without a specific plan, which has produced some fine spontaneous purchases.
Another very enjoyable evening starts at the Ocean Club for sunset cocktails. The room is beautifully decorated and its elevation offers memorable views of the harbor, the yachts, and surrounding islands. The staff is as knowledgeable and they are friendly. We thought about dining there but with the sun disappearing, we thought it would be nice to stroll through Gustavia and go to L’Entracte for dinner. The steak and frites were as exactly as you’d expect in a French bistro and the party like atmosphere was endearing. I also enjoy an establishment that has a perfect blend of locals and tourists alike.
If you’re looking for a water related activity, I highly recommend a half day snorkeling trip to Colombier. The waters are typically very calm and conducive to most swimming abilities. The snorkeling is amazing and the I find the morning trip is long enough, returning to Gustavia just in time for lunch! You can continue to Shellona for your day in the sun and salt. The feta in filo pastry with honey and a pita pizza with tomato, truffle, and caviar are great starters for the table and keep the rose wine coming. Shellona’s menu is original and versatile with every item a home run. A swim at Shell Beach after and you’ll be surprised how quickly this glorious day is winding down.
Last but not least, a spa service towards the end of the trip to rejuvenate your skin is a treat to look forward to, as is a massage. For a spa treatment, I enjoyed Le Spa La Mer at Le Barthelemy Hotel. As you make your way down the stairs to the spa, the zen that envelops you, and the fragrances, puts you in relaxation mode before you even reach the check in desk. Another favorite for a facial in Tanagra Esthetique in Gustavia. Francoise has been offering facials, body treatments, manicures and pedicures for 30 years. Francoise works alone so one has to plan well in advance and make an appointment early.
I think the best massage goes hand in hand with having the right villa. I prefer to have someone come to the villa because of the convenience and being able to set the atmosphere - a massage by the pool, or overlooking an amazing view, or in the privacy of an air-conditioned master suite.
When finished, open a bottle of champagne and soak in the whole experience!